On the Paris runway, Kenzo’s punk revival places a British spin on streetwear

PARIS (AP) — Kenzo’s newest evolution at Paris Vogue Week on Friday traded its signature jungle prints for one thing sharper: punk-infused tailoring, underground power, and a contact of British irreverence.

For its first devoted girls’s present in eight years, the LVMH-owned home embraced a rebellious streak. Scarf-collared tuxedo jackets melted into kimono shapes, harem pants slouched low, and lingerie peeked from waistbands. The soundtrack? Intercourse Pistols, Patti Smith and Blondie — setting the temper for a set that felt extra East London than Parisian cool.

With inventive director Nigo absent, his new womenswear studio, helmed by Givenchy alum Joshua A. Bullen, took heart stage.

The combination of Savile Row construction, deconstructed streetwear, and subversive particulars hinted at a contemporary path. And in a last, cheeky contact, friends left with T-shirts and crayons in metallic envelopes stamped with Kenzo’s newest emblem: a wide-eyed rabbit, able to run.

As a result of at Kenzo, the strain between previous and current isn’t simply explored — it’s worn.